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Garbage Disposal Problems in Longmont: Hums, Jams, Leaks and Replacement
When a disposal hums, leaks or goes silent, one of a few causes is usually behind it. Some can be checked safely at the sink, and some need a plumber and the right parts.
- Licensed and insured plumbers
- Same-day service when available
- 24/7 emergency dispatch
It hums but the blades do not turn
A hum with no grinding means the motor is trying to run while something blocks the flywheel. Switch the unit off at the wall, and at the breaker if it is hard-wired, before you touch anything.
- Look into the unit with a flashlight and pull out visible debris with tongs or pliers, never your hand.
- Find the hex socket at the center of the underside and fit the wrench that came with the unit, typically a quarter-inch hex key.
- Work the wrench back and forth until the flywheel turns freely.
- Press the red or black reset button on the bottom of the housing.
- Restore power, run cold water and test the unit briefly.
If it hums again at once, switch it off. Pressing reset repeatedly without clearing the jam can burn out the motor. When the wrench will not turn the plate, or the unit trips the breaker, the problem is beyond a simple jam.
Silent, tripped or weak: power problems
A unit that does nothing at all, with no hum, has lost power. Work through the likely causes in order.
| What you notice | Likely cause | What to try |
|---|---|---|
| No sound when switched on | Tripped reset button or breaker | Press reset, check the breaker |
| Works on and off | Loose wiring or failing motor | Have a plumber inspect it |
| Stops partway through grinding | Overload protector tripped | Let it cool, then press reset |
| Switch does nothing | Dead wall switch or loose plug | Test the outlet with another device |
| Nearby outlet is dead | Tripped GFCI outlet | Press the reset button on the GFCI |
Many units plug into a GFCI outlet under the sink, and those trip when damp. Test the outlet before assuming the unit has failed. Hard-wired units need an electrician or a plumber comfortable with that connection.
Disposal dead or jammed again?
Say what it does when you switch it on. A plumber serving your area can bring the parts or a replacement unit.
Leaks: sink flange, body or drain line
Water under the sink from a disposal comes from one of three places, and the spot tells you the repair.
| Where the water appears | What failed | Typical repair |
|---|---|---|
| Top of the unit, around the sink flange | Flange seal or mounting ring | Reseat the flange with new putty or gasket |
| Side or bottom of the housing | Cracked body or failed internal seal | Replace the disposal |
| Dishwasher hose connection | Loose clamp or cracked hose | Replace the clamp or hose |
| Drain pipe below the unit | Worn gasket or loose coupling | Reseat or replace the fitting |
Faucet leaks under the same sink belong to the fixture repair page. Dry the area, run water for a minute and watch where the first drop forms. A leak from the body of the unit cannot be patched, because the housing is sealed, so replacement is the answer. Catching it early protects the cabinet floor, and the water damage page covers what to do if the cabinet or floor is already soaked.
Clogged or backed-up sinks and the dishwasher connection
A sink that drains slowly or backs up is often a clog in the trap or the drain line, not the disposal itself. If water rises into the other side of a double sink, the line below is blocked. A disposal that smells or gurgles while a dishwasher runs may have a blocked dishwasher knockout or a clogged drain.
Plunging a disposal sink is awkward, and chemical cleaners can damage seals and splash into your face. A plumber clears the trap and line with a cable and checks that the dishwasher drain is open. The drain cleaning page describes when a sink clog is really a deeper line problem.
Repair or replace: what makes sense for your unit
Replacement is the normal choice when the housing leaks, the motor burns out or the unit trips the reset over and over. Repair makes sense for a jam, a loose mount or a flange seal.
- Repair: a jam, a sink flange leak, a loose drain coupling or a tripped GFCI.
- Replace: a leaking body, a motor that no longer starts, or repeated resets without a jam.
- Consider a larger motor: if a heavy household load keeps stalling a small unit.
Install a new unit when the old one is beyond repair. A swap includes a new mounting assembly, a new power cord or hard-wire connection and a new drain connection. Pricing is on the cost page, with the source shown for each figure.
What stays out of the disposal
Check the label or manual for the horsepower and the feed type. Continuous-feed units run while a switch is held on, and batch-feed units run when the stopper is locked in place. A swap can change one type to the other, but the wall switch and the wiring then need to match, which is worth settling before the old unit comes out.
Dishwasher hookups matter too. Many sink disposals have a knockout plug in the side port, and a new unit connected to a dishwasher needs that plug removed before the first cycle, or the dishwasher backs up into the sink.
Longmont's sewer page asks property owners not to put grease and greasy food scraps down the sink or disposal, and to collect grease and meat drippings in a container for the trash. A disposal does not remove grease. It only breaks food into smaller pieces, and the grease still coats the pipes downstream. Fibrous peels, pasta, rice and coffee grounds also clog drains.
Disposal beyond saving?
The unit and the cabinet it sits in are all a dispatcher needs. A visit can include removal of the old unit and a new one set in place.
Same-day disposal repair
A unit leaking under the sink is the urgent case. Phones are answered all night, and same-day service is common when a slot is open.
Disposal humming, leaking or dead?
Call and describe the sound or the leak. The dispatcher can send a plumber who serves your area to repair or replace it.
- Licensed and insured plumbers
- Same-day service when available
- 24/7 emergency dispatch